The right front door speakers in my 2001 Toyota Sienna started making a rattling noise. Pretty soon the left front speakers followed and I could not listen to music like I used to. This report will explain how to repair or replace these speakers. This report should apply to the Toyota Sienna models from 1998 to 2003, which use similar components.

The audio system is by JBL. There are 6 speakers total: 2 tweeters at the sides of the front dash, 2 midbass or subwoofers speakers at the front bottom corners of the front doors, and two midrange speakers at the rear. The speakers that we need to replace (or repair) are 6.5 inches in diameter and use a custom Toyota adaptor and are optimized to produce lower frequency sounds. They are rated for 30 watts and have impedance of 2.2 ohms, and their part number is 86160-08110.

First ensure windows are all the way up and door locks are in the unlocked position so you don’t accidentally damage the windows or lock yourself out. Get a longish flathead and thin screwdriver or similar tool and cover the tip with tape sufficiently so it won’t damage the trim. Insert the screwdriver at the front edge of the armrest panel and gently pry it up. The screwdriver needs to go under the panel about an inch or so and when the clip has released you should hear a “pop” noise.



Next just use your hand and pull the panel straight up from the loosened area and you should feel more of the restraining clips release. Go from the front to the rear as shown in the following images.





You should hear another “pop” noise as the second metal restraining clip is released.



The arm rest panel should now be completely free. Set it aside.



Next find the courtesy light located at the rear corner of the door. Insert the flathead screwdriver behind the grey enclosure and pry it gently from both sides. One side should come out easier than the other. The light enclosure has a clear plastic cover which may fall out while you’re trying to remove it. It snaps back on easily. Also there is a metallic clip on one side which may fall out or inside the door panel. It also fits back into the side of the grey enclosure easily.



It should come out easily, without using too much force.



Release the connector and wire and place it back inside the door panel so it doesn’t get in the way when removing the panel.



Next it’s time to remove the door lock bezel. Remove the screw located at the center of the door lock housing.



Insert the flathead screwdriver between the lock and plastic bezel and gently pry it partially out. Then insert the screwdriver between the door release handle and the plastic bezel and pry it there as well. Go back and forth between these areas to release the bezel.





It should release fully without having to use too much force.



Most of everything that needs to be removed in order to take out the door panel has been removed. Next we need to remove the 3 remaining screws (there are 4 total). There are 2 located behind the armrest, so remove those and store them away safely.



The final screw is located behind a button at the front of the door. Gently pry all around the button using the flathead screwdriver, releasing it a bit at a time. Once you have it off, remove the screw located behind it.





Before the door panel can come off completely, you also need to remove the automatic lock and window control unit. You have to insert a screwdriver in the front, and press with a lot of force and pull the front up, but this is very difficult to do. An easier way to do this is to take off the door panel partially, and to release the unit from the inside.

So now let’s remove the door panel, partially. To do this, tug at the bottom compartment as shown, and the entire bottom should come free.



Next you have to release the rear side of the door. This is a bit more difficult, but still easy. There are two plastic clips holding the panel to the sheet metal, and you have to release them using your flathead screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver (covered with tape and also perhaps an old rag) near the area where the two different types of plastics meet. Insert it in about an inch or two and gently pry the screwdriver until you hear a “pop” noise and the panel comes free at that area.



Another clip is located slightly lower, so you need to do the same thing a bit lower. You can pull the panel out a bit with your hands to determine the location of the clip.
 


The bottom and rear side of the door panel should be completely free. Now there are two hooks holding the panel to the sheet metal near the top front and top rear areas. You have to grab the top of the panel near the window at the rear and pull it up, using a bit of force, until it unhooks and comes free. You have to do the same at the top front area. The door panel should now be completely free, but before you can set it aside you have to unhook the automatic lock and window control unit wires.

To do this, put your hand behind the panel after it has come free from the sheet metal, and press at the front of the unit until it is released. It helps if you have another person holding the panel while you are doing this. Take a look at the following pictures. It should come out quite easily.





Hook the door panel back into the sheet metal while you work on removing this unit. Pull the unit to the front enough to release clip at the back, and it should be completely free.



You have to disconnect the two connectors. On the passenger side there are two connectors while on the driver’s side there is only one.



Use a screwdriver or your hands to press in the connector clips while you pull it out. It should come out without using too much force as well.





(On the driver’s side it is a bit different.)



So with everything off, the door should look like this. Lift at the top rear and top front near the window area to release the panel completely.



The plastic door panel should come off completely.



The speaker wire connector needs to be released next. It is located near the front top of the door. It has green and blue wires at the passenger side and purple and pink on the driver’s side.



Pull down the plastic waterproofing material just a bit. You can use waxpaper to cover the glued area on the plastic so it does not collect dust. Next, release the connector.



Once the connectors have been released, you have to remove the speaker wire from the sheet metal. It is attached via a hook. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry it out. Be careful not to press or pull too hard, as the clip is fragile and it could break.



Below is the same wire on the driver’s side.



The final step is to remove the speaker assembly. There are three screws that attach it to the sheet metal. Loosen the screws in an alternating manner, and then remove them all and pull out the speakers.



The most common problem is that the glue holding the outer edge of the foam has deteriorated and the foam edging is not attached. If you are just looking to repair the speakers, simply attach the foam edging back to the metal assembly using superglue or other strong adhesive and let dry for 24 hours. Make sure when handling the foam you are not too aggressive as it may break down further.

Replacement:

If you are looking to replace the speakers, then there are four more screws you need to remove. Once those have been removed, there are two clips between the speakers and the back thick housing unit. You need to insert a flathead screwdriver between these two small clips and pry to remove the speakers. There is a gasket between the plastic assembly and speakers attached with glue, and you need carefully deattach that as well.

Replace the speakers with OEM JBL 86160-08110, or purchase a 6.5" midbass or subwoofer unit such as Pyramid WX65X (less bass, more range ~70-3500hz) or Kicker 10CVT65-4 (more bass, less range ~25-350hz). The replacement speakers can be 4 ohm impedance units without problems, but shouldn’t be 2 ohm or 8 ohm. If you try to replace the speakers with a full range 6.5" speaker such as the ones commonly recommended at audio or electronics shops, you may be disappointed as they don’t work well (in terms of perceived audio quality) with the original design of the system. In order to attach aftermarket speakers to the plastic housing you may have to use washers and #8 3/4" sheetmetal screws. These can be found at auto or hardware stores.

Conclusion: Try to fix the original speakers, or get them cheaply refoamed using a DIY kit or by a professional. Aftermarket speaker installation is also an option, but may take more work and you can’t be sure the quality will match the original JBLs. For best result with aftermarket speakers get midbass or subwoofers designed to work at about 30-35 watts.

Update (March 2013). I tried some full range 6.5" speakers and I was not satisfied with the quality or fullness of sound. I also tried the above recommended Pyramid speakers but they failed (produced a similar rattling noise) after 1-4 months of usage. However in those few months they sounded reasonably good.

You can choose between the Kicker, or another reliable pair of midbass speakers depending on what you are looking for. Another good option is to purchase a re-edging/re-foaming kit and replace the outer damaged foam of the original speakers. A local speaker repair shop may be able to do that procedure for you.

Also, to the best of my knowledge, 2 ohm or 4 ohm impedance speaker units should be compatible with the audio system in this vehicle.